The German language has a word, "Stammtisch," that really has no English
equivalent. The closest translation is something like "a table reserved for
regulars" or "regular get-together." Literally speaking, Stammtisch means a
table in a bar or restaurant which is reserved for the same guests at the
same time every day or every week, and no one else is supposed to sit there,
even when the regulars aren't present. In the most traditional German beer
halls there is a large brass plaque above the table with the word Stammtisch
printed on it in bold lettering, which conveys "don't sit here." When I
visited the Hofbrauhaus in Munich for the first time, which is a massive
beer hall that also has no U.S. equivalent, I made the mistake of sitting at
someone else's unoccupied Stammtisch, raising eyebrows and eventually glares
until I figured out my transgression. In the US, if a table is empty, it's
fair game to occupy it, but not in Bavarian Germany.
There can be all kinds of Stammtisch, whether for friends who imbibe
together on a regular occasion, or those for specific interest groups, such
as a "philosophy discussion Stammtisch" or a "stamp collectors Stammtisch,"
or a "learn to speak German or English Stammtisch," etc. This is what US
sociologist Robert Putnam (of Bowling Alone fame) once labeled "social
capital," the stickiness that binds a cohort together. Adolph Hitler, who
got his start by learning the art of oratory in Germany's large beer halls,
had his own Stammtisch of sorts -- it became known as the Nazi Party.
Understanding this word/concept is one way to appreciate Munich's annual
rite of beer swilling known as Oktoberfest. It's like a massive Stammtisch
of hundreds of thousands of people who have a regular annual date in Munich.
I had never attended Oktoberfest before but when the organizers of my public
lecture in Munich invited me to be their guest at Oktoberfest, it was too
attractive an offer to turn down. I approached the experience like a
sociologist with a bent for blending in with the locals, i.e. consuming
massive quantities of beer.
Oktoberfest was celebrating its 200 year old anniversary, and over the
two-week period in which it unfolded approximately six million people passed
through the gates. A large number of attendees were wearing the traditional
Bavarian costumes, men in Lederhosen shorts and feathered caps, the women in
the low-cut, cup-runneth-over, St. Pauli girl Dirndls. And just about
everyone is holding an enormous flagon full of the specially made yellow
lager beer known as Märzen (nearly two million gallons of which are consumed
during the two-week festival). In other words, these Stammtischers (can I
use this word as a noun?) are pounding down serious quantities of beer.
Besides the amusement park atmosphere around the fairgrounds, they have
enormous beer halls on the fairgrounds where the Stammtischers mount their
libational assault on Kantian reason. Just in the beer hall in which I"stammtisched" (can I use it as a verb?) with my friends, I shared the
revelry with about 10,000 other people in a single hall. It was an enormous
structure and everywhere you looked there was a sea of people hoisting high
their yellow flagons, singing along in thick, throaty tones to the oompa
band in the middle. The more people drank, the more they climbed on top of
their benches and stools, apparently trying to get as high physically as
they were getting blood-level wise. The singing too grew increasingly loud
and paradoxically on-key, as the volkgeist found its harmony in both German-
and English-language songs rolling over the crowd. Next thing you know, they
were standing on the tables, higher still, and the singing by now was
thunderous, bellowing like drunk elephant seals.
There's something about singing in large crowds that has always been
appealing to humans; something about the communion that occurs when each
individual joins with like-others to produce something harmonious. It's the
exact opposite of politics, which is often one long argument that one can
never win, except temporarily, and frustrates this innate need for consensus
and connection. Three voices joined in harmony is a delight, but ten
thousand in unison is a wall of uplifting sound. Think of the magnificent
chorus of dozens in Beethoven's "Ode to Joy," and multiply that by, oh,
about a thousand. While I'm not particularly religious, I suppose there is
something God-like in this pursuit, a sense of climbing higher and higher
onto the stools, the tables, in beer content, in our attempts to reach some
divine summit. Perhaps I had drank too much beer myself, but this loud
bellowing mass suddenly seemed like something life-affirming and even
sloppily beautiful, a Stammtisch of Thousands within this beer hall.
Yet as I realized later (once the effects of the beer had worn off), the
flipside is that these sorts of rituals can and have been abused, whether
during the patriotic "rally around the flag"-fest that occurred after the
9-11 terrorist attacks (when the number of Americans who were willing to
support the use of torture spiked in the opinion polls) or during the Nazi
mass rituals that used symbols and, yes, song to unite a people's will
around a perverse destination.
Now with the developed world, whether in Europe, the United States or Japan,
mired in doubts and indecision over how to move forward their economies, and
with the developing world in China, India and Brazil wanting their deserved
seat at the table, the challenge of the 21st century, if you will, is how to
create a global Stammtisch of 7 billion people. We have a regularly reserved
table with each other, but can we make enough room at the table for everyone
to fit? And beyond that, can we learn to lift our voices together in a
beautiful song of planetary union? That's what we will find out in the 21st
century. |